Gentleman's Rite Of Passage
My First Bespoke Suit
Buying your first bespoke suit is a rite of passage in every gentleman’s life and one which can exponentially affect the progress of your career. For those who are just starting the sartorial process though, it can be a daunting prospect simply due to the vast amount of options.
As a result, we've put together a guide that will help take you from choosing your fabric from some of the finest cloths through to the final fitting with ease, allowing you to experience the unique personal pleasure that only comes with bespoke custom suits.
Just starting out, you want to seek versatility. We recommend a two-piece, two button suit taken in a British style, which feature modern, slimmer and more lightweight construction that will help you get used to wearing a suit with regularity and also provide useful layering pieces.
Your two-button jacket can be paired with black jeans and a fitted t-shirt for a smart casual look, or matched with a different pair of complimentary trousers for some formal colour-blocked style.
By treating your bespoke suit not only as a singular item, but finely tailored single items that can be combined in a myriad of ways, your first suit can provide a hard-working office style beyond a simple formal setting.
To get started on your sartorial journey with Raja, make an appointment either in one of our flagship stores or at a trunk show today.
That part on each side of your suit jacket immediately below the collar that is folded back on either side. Lapels can be notched (the most common style), peaked (lapels with “peaks” that point upward), or shawl (a continuous lapel without a notch or peak breaking the outer line).
Your lapel choice can drastically change the look of a jacket. Notch lapels are a failsafe option and peak lapels are more flamboyant, channeling plenty of Italian flair. Keep them slim in width for a more contemporary look and wider for a bolder appearance.
Padded shoulders will create a powerful image and would therefore be perfect for the boardroom. Soft shoulders with little to no padding (spalla camicia) are perfect for the warmer months though, as they offer unbeatable comfort and an increased range of motion.
The slits at the back of your jacket, vents allow for both a tailored fit and easy mobility. They also help keep the fabric from bunching and creasing as well as allow for more air flow. Choosing a jacket with one vent will give you a more tapered look while a double vented jacket will accentuate your build.
Today’s modern man is both rugged and refined. He’s strong on the playing field, he’s smart in the boardroom, and he’s sophisticated in a suit & tie. For this man, not just any suit will do. Any man can stumble into his local department store and pull a suit off the rack, but to truly “pull off” the suited look, a real man must go to a tailor.
When it comes to investing in a classic purchase, you can’t go wrong with a single-breasted two-buttoned suit jacket. Three-button jackets are slightly old hat and one-buttoned examples are usually reserved for more formal evening wear.
Mid to Quarter Trouser Break
Trouser break refers to how much of the bottom of the trousers meet the shoes. A medium/half break is the industry-standard and will result in just a little bit of foldover. If you want to err on the safe side, ask your tailor for a medium break. A full break offers at least one full fold or “break” over your shoes. A quarter break will just graze over the tops of your shoes. And finally, for the sartorially daring, trousers with no break will just meet the tops of your shoes. For your first suit, opt for a medium or quarter break.
Keep It Trim
Aim for a slim, flattering fit wherever possible, but ensure that the suit isn’t restrictive in any way. You should focus on clean lines that flatter your body shape and allow you a free range of motion. After all, if you’re not comfortable then you won’t appear confident, which is arguably the key to pulling off any clothing.
To wear a bespoke suit is to indulge yourself in the knowledge that the cloth draping over your body was cut for your individual shape. Your suit will only fit one man in the world perfectly. And that man is you. There is nothing else quite like it.
Stick To Classic Colours
For your first suit, it’s better to go the “basic”, simple route. Versatile colours like grey and navy blue will serve you well, since you can wear these pieces together or mix them with others you already own. Not only are these colours easier to accessorise but they will give your wardrobe a foundation. You will do well to focus on the basics rather than a more adventuresome pattern or colour until your foundation is complete.
The Right Weight & The Right Weave
Not only should your colour and pattern choice be versatile, but so should your choice in fabric material. For many professionals, a lighter weight worsted wool works best, as it can be comfortably worn year-round. An 8.5 to 9.5 ounce fabric with a tighter weave will ensure you can be comfortable in almost any climate.