Casual Tailoring With A Twist
Luxury Leisurewear
One of the greatest challenges facing bespoke tailoring today is accommodating a more relaxed and casual attitude towards bespoke tailoring. Modern cloths are now lighter and more flexible, dress codes are less formal, and etiquette is more democratic.
To respond, the tailors and stylists at Raja Fashions have upped their game; now it's all about how you can look at tailoring in a different light. A more casual light. Not sure how to do this? Well, we've got a few ideas. Read our thoughts below to see how to navigate this rather precarious sartorial path.
Go For Separates
Choosing separates (different cloths for the jacket & trousers) is an excellent option for casual tailoring. Separates are less formal and more versatile and should be made in contrasting but complementary tones and colours.
The choice of cloth available today is staggering. As with all fabric selection, you not only want to choose one that performs in a practical manner, but also one that flatters your complexion and physique. Texture rather than patterns – a herringbone or jacquard weave – is less obvious and more versatile than patterns such as stripes or checks but will still inject interest.
PRO-TIP: Don’t mix stripes with checks, and if you choose a pattern or texture, only use it for the jacket – choosing too many contrasting colours and patterns will make you look like a golfer... And as a general rule, don’t mix vegetable and animal, so keep linens and cottons separate from wools, mohairs and cashmeres. The vegetable-based cloths are the most casual because they don’t have the natural spring that animal-based cloths do, which means they crease more easily and achieve that lovely lived-in look.
It's All About Structure
The structure of the outfit, and the structure of the tailoring are essential. With less padding and canvassing, unstructured tailoring is a much softer and versatile garment than the more traditional Savile Row business suit. Because an unstructured garment has less canvas and padding, it is cut closer to the body, creating a more natural silhouette.
Keep It Simple
Which brings us neatly on to what to wear with your new casual look. Denim jeans with a tailored jacket can look superbly great or ridiculously bad. It’s a very fine line... Good-quality denim will automatically make the outfit a little more casual.
Knitwear can be a very effective bridge between formal and casual wear, but we would urge you once again to keep it simple. Avoid any patterns on the knitwear and let the tailoring do the talking!
Sneakers work best when they look intentional but not over-considered. Keep business suits and sneakers away from each other and, if in doubt, choose a simple sneaker that isn’t overdesigned with white, black, grey & navy being the most versatile.