The 3 Basic Principles of Tailoring (From an expert)
There is a resurgence of traditional men’s fashion. Formalwear is back in the wardrobe of men in Hong Kong, and more emphasis is being placed on the quality of dress rather than the type. With this in mind, more and more men are looking for professional suit-fitting guidance and tailoring to help them dress to impress.
But mastering the art of tailoring isn’t an easy task, it requires years of development, training, and experience.
We created this suit-fitting guide to help you better understand the basic principles of tailoring, so you know exactly what goes into creating a quality suit that will look amazing, and last a lifetime.
Principle #1 - Fabrics
Oftentimes people wonder how to choose a fabric for their clothes. Fabric is perhaps one of the most important, yet overlooked aspects of any tailored outfit, and is usually the best place to start.
But comfort and fabric go hand in hand. It’s important to pick out a quality fabric that has the correct composition and super count (the higher the count, the softer the fabric). It’s also important to take the brand and colour details into consideration as well.
Some of the most popular fabrics for tailored suits are silk, linen and wool. Let’s examine them one by one…
Silk is popular because it is a material that is soothing and soft, while not being slippery. It also has a premium look to it - with a subtle, yet noticeable shine. Silk is also quite strong and durable, but it should be noted that it doesn’t hold up well when wet. It is also a moderately elastic fabric, and comfortable fabric.
Linen is a highly absorbent fabric that is around 25% stronger than cotton. Linen also has great heat conductivity, keeping you warm in the colder months, and cool in the warmer months. That, along with its soft feel, is why it’s generally considered to be a very comfortable fabric.
Wool is one of the oldest fabrics known to man, and can be manufactured in many different ways. Two of the most common ways wool can be made is worsted, or woolen.
Worsted is a finer grade pull, looking and feeling smoother to the touch. Woolen is nappier and often warmer to wear, but for some people it can cause irritation to the skin.
At Raja, our collection of premium materials and fabrics are designed to give you the utmost comfort and support, whilst ensuring you look sharp for your next outing. Contact us today to learn more about how to choose a fabric for your clothes.
Principle #2 - The fitDescription
One of the more hands-on aspects of tailoring is taking a fitting of the client, and professional tailors pride themselves on being able to get the fit correct every time. Entire outfits, regardless of material and aesthetic, can be ruined if the fit is off, even by a small margin. Therefore it is essential that everything is sized and fitted correctly from the beginning.
Fitting refers to how the suit fits on the body; it shouldn’t be too large or too tight. Different designs will have different fits, but the ultimate goal is to craft the outfit to perfectly fit the client’s body. Draping and fall will be emphasised on some suits more than others, annunciating shoulder to waist ratio and providing an aesthetic silhouette.
Believe it or not, a large part of this process comes down to dialogue with the customer. Understanding what the customer wants precisely helps the tailor meet their needs. Sometimes a customer may not be certain what type of suit cutting design or pattern they want. In this circumstance, a master tailor will thoroughly explain the different options available, and size them accordingly.
Principle #3 - Constructionscription
Here comes the technical part - actually tailoring the suit itself. This is the principle that distinguishes master tailors from amateur tailors.
There are a few aspects that need to be taken into consideration to ensure that a suit is cut, constructed, and tailored to perfection.
First is the finishing - a master tailor will ensure that the suit is free from loose threats, that the suit cutting pattern is symmetrical, and that there is no compromise in the stitching quality.
The world’s greatest tailors hand-stitch the label and collar, ensuring a perfect and comfortable fit. They will also implement small, subtle details, that help improve the look of the suit. This includes accent details, such as using different colour threads with a consistent number of stitches per centimetre. These threads must also be well secured so they don’t come out.
Finally the tailor will focus on the canvasing, which refers to the middle layer of the external fabric and the lining. This part of the suit is made of horse hair and is absolutely crucial to the outfit, as it helps conform to the shape of the jacket, and makes it drape well. You could think of the canvassing like a mouldering layer that conforms to your body.
Reach out to us
Here at Raja Fashions, we pride ourselves in being the best, and have spent the last 50 years mastering the 3 principles of a tailored suit.
Whether you are in need of help on how to choose fabric, your suit cutting pattern, or suit fitting style, our suit fitting guidance and professional tailoring will unlock the best looking you.
Contact us today to experience ultimate satisfaction with your premium, tailormade suit.